Did you know? A tree’s roots are found in the top 18 inches of soil and can extend out up to three times beyond the area of the tree’s canopy. The woody roots support the tree and store the carbohydrates that feed the tree. The smaller roots absorb the water and nutrients. Simply knowing this, it is critical to use best practices to take better care of our trees.

From Plant Northern Virginia Natives, https://www.plantnovatrees.org/tree-care.

Avoid soil compaction - compacted soil will negatively impact tree health.

• To dissuade pedestrians from walking over the roots and to prevent accidents with lawn mowers and string trimmers, plant shrubs and groundcover under trees
• Add a three-foot radius ring of wood chip mulch (do not let it touch the tree trunk.) Organic material gradually leads to soil loosening.
• Don't disturb more than a third of the root zone. For example, don't disturb the soil closer than 20 feet from the trunk of a 10-inch diameter tree.
• Avoid driving machinery or vehicles over the root zones of trees.

When digging

Avoid damaging roots. As a rule of thumb: don't cut roots that are wider than your thumb. This is especially true for tulip trees, which are especially susceptible to fungal disease from damaged roots.

Limit wood mulch

The only things trees need under them is their fallen leaves. If you mulch, use wood chip mulch that allows air circulation. Do not heap more than 2-4 inches deep, and keep away from the base of the trunk.   Avoid creating mulch mounds around trees from the accumulation of annual wood mulch – it will create unhealthy conditions.​

Gardening

• Be very careful about gardening under trees, and if you are installing perennials, try to choose 2-inch plugs rather than quart pots to minimize disturbance of tree roots when digging them in.
• Watch for shallow roots. Generally speaking, trees that are adapted to grow in bottomlands will have shallow roots. Examples include Red Maples and Sycamores, but there are many others - just look to see if the tree can be grown in wet conditions. (An exception is Hackberries, which grow in wet areas but have deep roots.) Interestingly, those wet-tolerant plants often grow quite well in dry, compacted soil because they can tolerate low oxygen conditions.
• Never pile additional soil on top of the ground over tree roots within the drip line.

The first 2 or 3 years

Tree mortality is highest in the first months and years after transplanting. See the tips below to get your tree off to the right start.

• Choose the right tree for the right site.
• Plant properly.
• Mulch properly - don't let mulch touch the tree.
• Water properly - Water around the edge of the planting hole to encourage roots to reach for the water. Trees become established in 1 year for every 1 inch of tree caliper. In other words, a tree with a two-inch trunk will take 2 years to establish.
• Remove stakes within a year - staking weakens trees.
• Protect against deer until the leaves are out of reach.

When do trees need pruning?

For the health of the tree

• Three-year-old trees may need limited structural pruning to direct growth.
• Ragged tears of branches are pruned to create a wound more capable of healing.
• "Health and maintenance" pruning (typically of 1.5-2" deadwood) does not improve tree health.

For human reasons

• Some dead branches in some locations pose a hazard.
• Branches sometimes get in our way. They should be cut just beyond the branch cuff, not further out - the tree can't heal wounds in random places.

 

English Ivy Removal

It’s a common sight: English ivy crawling up the trunk of a tree. Some people find it an attractive look, but it’s harming the tree. An invasive species, English ivy competes with trees for sunlight, water, and nutrients. This is particularly hazardous in the spring when trees leaf out and their energy needs increase.

English ivy can also harbor pests and diseases, and its dense foliage keeps tree bark moist, promoting fungal infections. Even people can be harmed by the ivy, as it creates tripping hazards on the ground due to roots and uneven ground. Overgrowth can draw rodents and insects carrying diseases.

The best time to remove English ivy is in the spring when the ivy is most visible and the trees most vulnerable. But do so carefully or you may harm the tree by tearing the bark. We have some suggestions for how to best remove ivy.

1. Protect yourself. Wear gloves and long sleeves. English ivy isn’t poisonous, but it may be harboring spiders and ticks, and the ivy itself can irritate skin.

2. Cut the ivy in two places on the tree. Use pruners or a hand saw to cut every ivy vine around the entire circumference of the tree. Make one cut at shoulder height and the second cut at knee height. Then carefully remove the vines between the two cuts. This leaves the upper vines severed from their root system.

3. Make a third cut at the tree’s base. Locate any ivy that is growing on the ground around the base of the tree and sever the connection. Then dispose of the ivy strands you’ve removed. Best not to put them in the compost as they may be very happy growing there.

4. Let the remaining vines die. Once severed, the ivy remaining on the tree will eventually turn brown and die. They will remain in place for several months or more until they lose their grip on the tree and fall off. The vines may become brittle enough over time when you can safely without it without harming the bark.

5. Keep the ivy from returning. Monitor regularly and repeat this process as needed.

Keeping English ivy at bay requires some perseverance and patience. But doing so is good for the trees, the community, and the natural beauty of the landscape.